When the party’s over

On my last morning I took an early walk to get a coffee. All the Christmas decorations and lights are up and it’s very peaceful and pretty to wander about, although pretty cold. It’s Jason’s birthday today and it was nice to to sit with my memories in a cosy coffee shop. 

Before heading to the airport I lashed out to actually have breakfast at the Savoy. I tried to get Winston Churchill’s favourite table (table 4) but it wasn’t available, so I made do with a window seat. 

I’ve had a lovely time and feel refreshed and relaxed, ready to drop back into my life. It’s a long way home - something like 38 hours door to door but I was sitting in the “good seats” so slept for much of the flight. As we were landing in Perth, Bruce Springsteen’s Dancing in the Dark was playing on the Qantas media loop. 

Thank you for following along, the comments and notes - it’s been lovely to read them.  

Pure Imagination

After a cheapie breakfast at Pret I walked it off with an hour trek  to buy a customised Liverpool strip for Cam. Liverpool was Jason’s  favourite team and it was a bit of an emotional walk back to the hotel. I then caught a cab to my morning destination, Sir John Soane’s house/museum. This turned out to be one of the favourite parts of my  trip. John Soane was a 19th century architect. He demolished three houses and rebuilt all three to accommodate a house, a studio and a space for his incredible collection of historical artefacts. The house itself was spectacular - light wells that go from five stories up right down to the basement, coloured glass and beautiful spaces. I also loved the contents  including the sarcophagus of Seti I and hundreds of statues , bits of marble and artwork. He was a magpie collector. I was imagining how beneficial it would have been for his students to work surrounded by all of the beautiful inspiration although I’m wondering why some of the pieces have not been reclaimed by the original countries of origin. Sir John gave his property to the nation as a gift on the proviso that nothing was changed - the property was to be opened “as is” with free entrance. I wonder if he foresaw how much enjoyment future generations would derive from experiencing and admiring his creativity.

 For lunch I took the opportunity to try Gordon Ramsay’s “Street Burger” restaurant. He claims they are the best burgers in the world. Hmmm. Not bad, and some creative options (Butter chicken burger with chill lime pickle) but I’m not sure they are the best in the world. 

I went to see Matilda in the afternoon. Great show with a quality set and excellent casting. Lots of fun. I had equal enjoyment people watching all the small children in the audience. Since it was the matinee, the place was as packed with kids and I could hear from the discussions around me that it was a first theatre experience for a number of them. I love that even though Britain is struggling economically, people are still willing to spend on the arts. 

Roll up roll up..

Today’s plans needed revision due to my poor attention to detail about what was open and closed on which days. The revised plan included a trek to a highly reviewed breakfast restaurant in Neil’s yard. Google maps was not playing nice so there was a fair bit of wandering around the narrow cobbled streets. Despite an unprepossessing start (the waitress told me to stand in a corner outside and wait two minutes till they were open) it was a great choice. I opted for 5 grain porridge with banana, tahini, honey, cinnamon, sesame seeds & cacao nibs. Next level. I spent the rest of the day wandering through a few different shopping locations including Bond Street, Fortnum and Mason, some gorgeous covered walkways and the cute streets in Covent Garden. 

The great disappointment of the day was Harrods. A confusing maze of brands each in their own little sections. No natural daylight, over the top decor, confusing lift and escalator locations and a general crass, overcommercialised feel. Like a casino for shopping not gambling. I had to ask directions three times to find the way out. 

The highlight today was the dinner experience. I asked the doorman (Rob) to call a cab to take me to dinner, and he instead offered the “House car”, a Rolls Royce. The driver, Victor,  was lovely and took a roundabout route to the restaurant to extend the experience. He said that he’s instructed to exclusively play classical music unless the passenger asks for something different. I asked for rap and had him giggling, but he stuck with the classical. I arrived in style at Lina Stores for a wonderful Italian dinner. It’s a very small local restaurant in Soho with excellent prices and even better food.  I walked back to the hotel via Covent garden which was feeling very festive with an event to turn on the Christmas lights. 

Empirical exploration.

I woke early and walked up the street for a coffee, spotting a fox in the process. I believe they are quite common in the city but I was really surprised to see one. 

Breakfast was at my favourite Indian restaurant, Dishoom. It’s a must visit place for me every time I’m in the UK. I had  a sausage with chilli jam wrapped in a naan, washed down with a spicy chai tea. So good. The Indian cusine in London is amazing, no doubt due to the long association with Britain. 

I then embarked on a history immersion day, with a badged British tour guide, Alexandra. We spent most of the morning in the Winston Churchill War rooms (very well done). His influence and impact on England’s success in WW2 is so significant and I loved all the exhibits and the stories. I’m only sorry I didn’t get a photo of the velvet onesie that he wore. The War rooms visit was followed by a walk around St James. The ability of my guide to identify specific interests, coupled with deep knowledge of the area made it a fascinating day. Below are the “last” for making Queen Victoria’s shoes at Lobb’s, the Enigma machine at the War Rooms (Turing, by the way was from Kings College at Cambridge) and some shots from Berry and Rudd, a wine merchant that started in the 18th century. So much history of the British Empire. 

I sat in the American Bar at the Savoy for a drink (only two in deference to my budget) before a reprise at Dishoom for dinner.  

Suitcase of Memories

Transit to London this morning was smooth, the train trip only about 40 minutes. I did pay extra for first class, in the expectation that I would get a cup of tea and a biscuit, but no tea trolly eventuated. London is immediately recognisable. The red buses, the black cabs, the architecture and the bustle of a one of the world’s great cities. It made me happy. I think enjoying travel comes from finding the perfect mix of the interest in the new and different, coupled with just enough of the familiar and comforting. I took a black cab to the Savoy, my home for the next four days. This is the second time I’ve stayed here, and the seamless welcome reminded me why I returned. It’s such an impressive hotel with next-level friendly service and a beautiful fit out. I had two complementary champagnes in the lounge while my room was being sorted. 

Lunch was an experience. I had chosen “Sketch”, a newish, instagram friendly restaurant in Mayfair. The food was outstanding and the decor really unique and fun. The photos don’t convey the whole atmosphere. Highly recommend. 

I walked back to the hotel after lunch along Regent St - the “mile of style” high end shopping strip. In contrast to the vibrancy of Sketch, all the clothing in the windows seemed to be black, white, grey or neutral. Most of the shops were empty of customers and I wonder about the revenue vs rent equation. A quiet afternoon and a quick toastie for dinner provided quality down time before a big day tomorrow. 

Unchained Melody

My original plan was to go punting, but it was a nasty old day so I decided to use the red hop on hop off bus - a great way to get my bearings, travel around the city and to pick up a few stories about the sights. It was a good choice, with the commentary so interesting that I did the full loop without hopping off.

Walking around is surprisingly tricky as the footpaths are narrow and the bicycles are silent and come up from behind very quickly. Parked bikes are absolutely everywhere there is a space to leave them, on top of walls, next to railings, jammed into gaps between buildings. They are mostly old and dodgy bikes, and many have a basket or panniers. Very few are locked up and I’m very curious as to whether there is theft. After doing the bus loop, I hopped off and managed to get entry into both Queens’ and King’s Colleges , photos included of the mathematical bridge at Queens, and the Chapel at Kings. Side note, apostrophe use is completely inconsistent on their websites and social media, so I have run with the option most common on their materials for the first mention above and am ignoring completely after that. 

I spent the afternoon in the hotel bar with a pot of tea (and then a champagne), researching Oxford and Cambridge courses. It’s a gorgeous art deco room full of light from the large windows that overlook the park. I discovered that in the bathrooms they play the audiobook of Wind in the Willows, read by Kenneth Graham. It was lovely, but I did have a giggle about people perhaps staying in there a long time to listen to the story. While I was there, a protest march (for Palestine) went by outside, it was huge and very loud but quite decorous. 

In the evening, I attended Evensong at Kings College. It was glorious. The Kings choir had the most ethereal sound and it was impossible not to be moved by the glory of it. Their first piece was performed at the entry to the church, so you can’t see them, just hear their voices fill the church. I cried. Then they file in behind the priest, all decked out in red and white for the service, which is largely conducted in song. There were about 15 young boys and a similar number of young men. It was a peak experience and I’m dying to go back and hear the carols at Christmas. 

Part of your world

Friday was a travel day, to my second destination on this trip, Cambridge. Having completed an online course here in 2022, I was keen to explore it in person, hopefully with proper access as an alumna. It’s Guy Fawkes night, a fact I know after hearing a hilarious advert on the radio for the BBC who will be playing “soothing music for pets while the fireworks are on”.

I arrived in the afternoon with enough time for a reconnaissance around the colleges, some of which I did in fact have access to. Here’s Trinity from the inside: 

The history is palpable, and it’s odd to realise that some of the “stories” that we grow up with are about actual places. Here’s a graft from the apple tree that dropped the apple inspiring Newton’s work on gravity. Also visible are the ubiquitous bicycles - students in Cambridge are not allowed to bring their cars to the city. 

The allure of Cambridge is more than academic prestige; I feel like it represents a culture that cherishes intellectual curiosity and critical thinking. I’m imagining scholarly discussions and vibrant academic communities and am so envious of the immersive experience that the students here have. I suspect the reality is somewhat different, but I still yearn for an education that transcends the ordinary. Whilst having a few drinks at Parker’s Tavern (and also an excellent dinner) I’ve resolved to explore residential courses at Cambridge and Oxford. for 2024. Fireworks tonight were audible but not visible from my room and it was a bit too cold and rainy to venture out. Here are a few shots of the bicycles, which are everywhere. 

Parr for the course

The rain had set in today so I revised the activity plan to find an indoor option. Sudeley Castle sounded like a winner, and it was only twenty minutes or so away, so I bought a ticket for the tour and headed off. Two drowned rat hours later, I can report that the tour was an outside one. The tour guide had very few teeth, which distracted me completely from the tour. How does he eat? Rain and dentistry aside, it was a fascinating place, rich in history and owned by the various royal families for many years. Henry and Anne Boleyn visited the castle and later it was the home of Henry with Catherine Parr, who remained there after his death and is buried there. 

Elizabeth I also visited on a number of occasions. The  exhibits in the various rooms are pretty good. I’ve included a photo of Elizabeth’s very luxe toilet. 

Half of the castle still has a resident family - I can’t imagine having the general public traipsing through your library for five months of the year, but I understand that the paying guests support the property maintenance and I’m very appreciative of the chance to see the property. 

Back at Broadway, I pottered about, visiting the wonderful gift shop of a little design museum (I was too tight to pay the seven pounds to go in the one room museum) and some shops. 

The rain is a little inconvenient, but it doesn’t detract from the beauty and the experiences. I think once you expect it to rain, and so long as you have appropriate clothing, it’s not an issue.

Here’s my room at Abbott’s Grange. The landing above my room and the stairs outside my door.

Time Present and Time Past

The absolute silence in a stone walled room, coupled with the darkness of a curtained four poster bed worked magic and I awoke ready to take on the world. The air was crisp with a hint of woodsmoke and the rain seemed to be holding off. After a lovely breakfast in the dining room (thumbs up for the pork sausage, thumbs down for the coffee) I was picked up by my driver, Steve, who proved to be an absolute star of a tour guide. What an amazing day of sights, linked together by short drives through narrow hedgerowed lanes rich with autumn foliage. After a scenic route past a few lookouts, and a traipse through a sheep field to a sun dial, we stopped in Chipping Camden, his hometown for five generations, at the Hart silversmiths. They are in an old silk warehouse which was set up as a guildhall in 1902 as part of the arts and crafts movement. The visit was to their actual workshop, not a showroom, with the current senior Mr Hart, in his 80’s, still at work.

This photo shows their accounts filing system (really!) looking like elaborate paper roses hanging from the ceiling. They were very shy, quiet people, extremely proud of their work, and wanting to get on with it rather than chat. I am now the owner of a lovely silver milk jug - a special memory of the trip.

Chipping Camden is the beginning (or end depending on how you look at it) of the “Cotswolds Way”, 102 miles of rambling path through the countryside. I’ve included a photo of the marker post. After a wander through the village, and some great stories of Steve’s youth, I went through a charming church with a beautiful stained glass window and little graveyard. I took the unexpected opportunity to tie a blue ribbon for Jason on the “ribbons to remember” gate. 

We stopped for lunch at a cafe in the middle of nowhere for an excellent sandwich, before arriving at Stow on the Wold for some wandering time. This village has the “oldest pub in England “ (I seem to have been to a few that claim that…) and a church door that inspired JRR Tolkein’s drawing of the hobbit house door. The next stop was Donnington’s brewery, where you buy beer via a fridge with an honesty box for payment. I’m not a beer drinker, but felt like I should partake - two pounds, fifty a bottle.

I drank my beer while watching the swans at the lake and the water wheel that supplies the water for the brewing. We then visited the newest and the oldest features of the Cotswolds in that order. Firstly an extensive wellness, sustainability, green produce complex, with a restaurant, cooking classes, and of course, huge retail offerings. It’s been set up by Lady Bamford, who seems to be a canny investor and entrepreneur. Following that, we went to a standing stone circle, tucked away behind some trees and down a muddy path. Intriguing, mysterious and very old, it dates from 2500BC and was a very special experience. We returned to Abbotts Grange on a scenic route (is there anything else here?) through more villages, and a spot where the Cotswold stone is quarried. The only disappointment of the day was my dinner choice - a one Michelin star restaurant with average food and dubious service. 

The Cotswolds to me represent the quintessential English village and countryside life. It feels untouched by modernity (exhibit 1: deep fried Brie and prawn cocktails on many menus) Interestingly, I have experienced almost no diversity. The local population, oddly in this day and age, seems to be entirely Anglo. I’m going to explore this a little more if possible over the next couple of days.