Sunday 28 July 2024

Venice Vidi Vici (well not quite)

We were eager to explore Venice, starting the day with a tour of the Doge’s place, St Mark’s Church and the square. We’ve seen many fancy buildings over  the past week and it was interesting to see the stylistic differences in decoration here. Gold and gilt everywhere and beautiful mosaics on floors and ceilings. 




I’ve included a photo of a “mailbox” in the wall of the palace - Even in the 1300’s, people tried to avoid taxes and this box is where you write to dob in someone who is doing something wrong financially. The mail slot is the mouth.The palace included courtrooms and council chambers as well as the covered walkway through to the prison (the Bridge of Sighs). I wish now that I had asked why they put a prison in the prime centre of the city. It seems really odd.

Following the tour, we embraced our tourist status and hopped into two gondolas. You sit really low on the water and it was pretty choppy in the open lagoon where we boarded, but once in the canals it was smoother. The gondolier was very good about answering all our questions, although he was a bit surprised and I suspect normally people don’t talk to them. He said that there are about 400 owners (it costs approx 30,000 Euro for a boat) and another 200 or so “drivers”. They work about twelve hours a day in the busy season. It was peaceful and quiet and very beautiful. One of my favourite experiences on the trip. 





 We had an unplanned afternoon following the gondola ride. Mum and Bene headed off to the Biennale, Eve returned to the hotel for some down time and the rest of us attended a short but enjoyable glass blowing demo. As expected, a sales pitch followed - $1200 for a decanter and wineglass set anyone? Escaping the gallery, we looked for a lunch option. It’s tricky with a big group and an unknown city but Flynn’s strategy (the first place we see after we go over the bridge) actually worked and we had a decent lunch next to the grand canal. We split up further after lunch to wander. Venice was teaming with tourists and because of the narrow streets it felt more congested than anywhere else we’ve been. It was also very very humid. By 3.30 most of us were hot, sweaty and exhausted - despite being in a number of separate small groups we all ended up on two consecutive boats back to our island hotel. This is the second time I’ve been in Venice, and again I feel like I haven’t quite managed to find what I’m looking for. You get funnelled in to the main tourist streets, with shop after shop of dodgy glass animals, and  when you go off track you end up at a dead end against a canal. I know somewhere that there is quiet charm and interesting art and fabulous food, but Venice has beaten me twice now. 




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